The real Key West? It’s not even on Key West proper anymore, but just over the Cow Key Channel Bridge, on the even tinier Stock Island. Follow Front Street past a row of old trailers, and you’ll stumble upon a little miracle: the Hogfish Bar and Grill (6810 Front Street, 305-293-4041;, a big, clamoring seafood joint at a marina that is rumored to have been the headquarters for the Bay of Pigs operation. Grab a table by the water, and try a fresh hogfish sandwich ($12.95), loaded with Swiss, mushroom and onion. Soak up the afternoon sun, toss some bread at the passing fish, and don’t rush home. Local investors plan to develop this area over the next 10 years — they figure that when Cuba opens up, Stock Island will be the next Key West.